Angora Rabbit Care

S h e a r i n g

Daisy before shearing

Daisy after shearing

Thor before shearing

Thor in a bunny warmer

Two ways to harvest a rabbit's fiber are plucking and shearing. There is much debate as to which results in a superior yarn. Hand spun is consistently softer than machine processed yarn in my experience, though much more labor intensive. German Angoras do not shed their coat readily as French and English Angoras do. For many generations German Angoras have been bred not to shed. Thus their coat is in continuous growth and has no short hairs in the prime wool unless there are second cuts. Second Cuts occur when cut sections of the coat find their way into the scissors again, and end up in with the prime fiber. To pluck a German Angora would be painful, as it would be to pluck a French or English Angora before they have begun to shed. Every 90 days I shear my purebred German and German hybrid rabbits with clippers and scissors, and it is no more painful to them than it is for you to get a haircut. Before shearing I have found that giving them a good going over with a cool air blow dryer gets any hay particles out saving labor later. The rabbits seem to enjoy it. The areas around the vent, the face, as well as the toenails are continuously monitored, and trimmed as necessary. Some individuals have faster fiber growth and need to be trimmed more frequently. I trim only the longest hairs on the bottom of the feet. The dense growth on the feet helps protect the foot from resting directly on the wire. After trimming, they are given a bunny coat to wear, a few nights in the heated garage, and/or heat lamps near a corner of their cage until their coat grows in enough to insulate them again. For a more thorough description of how I shear, link to my Shearing Tutorial page.

With their lovely fur coats, they are resistant to cold, but sensitive to heat. In the hot months I monitor them closely. They get liter soda bottles full of frozen water to lay up against, a spot in the cool garage, or if it is a heat wave they get moved to the air conditioned house (there are some weeks in the summer where I have a bunch of rabbits in my house). They are never subjected to sun without shade and water.

H o u s i n g f o r G e r m a n A n g o r a s

Do yourself a favor and buy the special J-clip pliers. Your hands will thank you. There are even nicer ones than the ones pictured here.

Most of my adult rabbits are housed in custom made 36"x36"x18" galvanized welded wire cages. The 36" depth can be difficult to reach deep into to gather up a reluctant rabbit, so 48"x24"x18"or 24" work as well. They all have built-in baskets along a side wall for Timothy hay. If the hay is put above the rabbit it tends to fall on top of them and get caught in their coats. For the hay baskets you can use chicken wire or 1"x2" galvanized welded wire. I put the opening for the hay basket along the top edge of the top panel. The kindling cages are made entirely of the 1" x1/2" wire to insure against kits wiggling out of any 1"x1" holes. My two kindling cages for nursing does and their kits have drop nests bent into the bottom (see diagram). Note: On one the nest box runs the length of the cage front to back. This design is better for mothers with older kits. It gives them plenty of room to all cuddle up with mom in the hay. For kindling and the first month I strongly recommend a drop nest box 12"wide x17"long x 7-9"deep. The smaller size helps the kits stay together. Shared body heat keeps them warm. Also locating it at the front of the cage makes it a lot easier to check on the kits. For the floor of all the cages I use 1"x1/2" galvanized wire (check your local farm supply, you can buy a variety of galvanized wire by the foot). Make sure that the 1/2" side of the wire is face up. It provides even support for their feet. Don't use 1/2"x1/2" wire. The openings are too small for the dung pellets of large rabbits (i.e. German Angoras) to fall through, and they will build up quickly. For the walls of the adult cages you can use 1"x1" (more durable) or 1"x2" (less expensive) galvanized wire. You will need a pair of good tin snips, some needle nosed pliers, a set of J-clip pliers and J-cage clips, a drummel tool (optional) to grind cut wire instead of bending it safely out of the way with the needle nose pliers, and a hammer and a 2x4 (or something similar) around which to bend the wire. You can just bend the walls all around as the roof, floor and sides, and you only have to cut and attach the front and back panels. Whenever possible try to bend the wire with a perpendicular crosswire on the inside as opposed to the outside. I have found that the door is easiest to use if it attaches at the side. This way you can attach the feeder to the door wire to save space at the front of the cage, and you don't dump food out when you open the cage. The opening for the door should be at least 12"x12" and is cut after the cage is put together. The door opening is centered as much as possible (for ease of access) but still leaves enough room for the food and water to attach. The door hinge can be made using the same J-clips you use to connect the panels of the cage together. The actual door must overlap the opening at least 1 inch on the three unattached sides. I put the roll ties every 2-3 inches along every seam of the cage (a little more loosely for the door hinge). Some cages are secured within a sturdy framework, a good 3 feet off the ground (angle iron works well) and protected from pests and predators (eg. mice, rats, raccoons, aggressive dogs) and the elements. The other cages are hung from the rafters by sturdy chains. The rabbits must have plenty of fresh air but be safe from icy drafts, hot sun, and moisture. On that note, I take precautions with the outdoor exercise pen as well. The 6lx3wx2h foot pen has a partial wire roof/door, and a partial wood roof for shade (shade from a tree will move with the sun and possibly leave the rabbit without respite). The wire is held securely in place with tent stakes. Fresh water is always available here as well. They do love to nibble on the fresh grass (not too much for the kits whose digestive systems are just developing). A 24" deep cage is much easier for those with short arms to reach in to compared to the 36" deep cage. For a larger space one can make a 24"x48" cage. I have found that the 36"X36" cages are much better for housing litters. All the rabbits really do enjoy getting out to the exercise pen regardless of how big your cages are.

D i e t

Water	Staple Food	Treats
Of course, rabbits should have fresh water always available. I have a small herd and so it is still most convenient for me to use water bottles. Some breeders choose to use crocks, or automatic watering systems.	I feed my rabbits 1/2 cup of pellets in the morning and a 1/2 cup at night. I am willing to pay more and drive further to get them the best feed I can find. It is worth the extra effort and cost. The rabbits love Orchard Grass and Timothy hay. I feed them whichever is available at my local feed store, but when I have a choice, I choose Timothy. I make sure they have a regular supply, especially during the last month before trimming. A regular hay supply along with trimming on time and mite control are essential to prevent wool block.	I give my rabbits apple branches to nibble on as a treat. They are an entertaining snack. Good for the teeth and digestion. Treats (i.e. vegetables) are provided sparingly as I have been told that they can imbalance the digestive system, and may cause loose stools. I also give them a teaspoon every morning of a blend of oats, sunflower hearts, and wheat berries. I also give them a teaspoon every evening of Showbloom. I taper them off during the hot months. These supplements are excellent appetite stimulants for the bunnies. I provide treats in a separate dish from their staple food as they have been known to dig out all their pellets looking for more treats.

H e a l t h

An ounce of prevention...	Vet	Health Concerns
Time and attention, observing their habits, maintaining clean living conditions, fresh air without drafts, exercise, good nutrition, etc. will save a lot of heartache in the long run. Keeping the nails, vent and face areas trimmed are essential.	Try to find a local vet who is confident and experienced with rabbits before you have any problems.	Make sure to take precautions against wool mites. A clear sign of wool mites is dander flakes at the back of the neck. I give my rabbits ivermectin in the spring and the fall. Ask your vet what he/she recommends.

LINKS

The IAGARB website has excellent information on German Angora breed standards and care as well as breeders listings. http://www.iagarb.org	Free pattern for 100% Angora Children's gloves: http://www.freevintageknitting.com /mittens/633-mittens-pattern.html	Oregon Extension Service - Domestic Rabbit Diseases page: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/ catalog/pdf/pnw/pnw310-e.pdf
Amber's Angoras is a great resource. They breed Satin Crosses! http://amberangora.com/	Misty Moonlit Acres - They raise a variety of fiber animals. http://www.mistymoonlitacres.com/	Check out Cindy's Treasures. She has a wide variety of bunnies and fiber animals! http://www.geocities.com/cindys_treasures1/
Looking Glass Loft is run by a couple of truly great ladies. Check them out! http:www.lookinglassloft.com

Contact Carrie at ccculliton@earthlink.net for further information.